Most people think the Camino Francés begins in St. Jean Pied de Port.
They’re wrong.
The Camino begins the moment you decide to go.
For Sage and me, that meant leaving our home in Coimbra, Portugal, and embarking on a journey that felt like a pilgrimage before we had even taken a single step on the trail.
As with most great adventures, everything started with coffee.
How to get to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port?
We loaded up our packs, double-checked our gear, and headed to the bus station. The plan looked simple enough on paper: Coimbra to Porto, Porto to Bayonne. Then take a train from Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port.
Simple.
The transportation gods, however, had other ideas.
Every Camino story has to start somewhere, and ours started with a 19-hour FlixBus ride to Bayonne.
Leaving Coimbra for the Camino Francés
Sage and I boarded the first bus with cautious optimism. Our first stop was Porto, and honestly, the bus was surprisingly comfortable. I settled in thinking, “Hey, maybe this won’t be so bad. Nineteen hours on the road? I might even get some sleep.”
Sage, ever the wise sidekick, probably knew better.
And of course, Sage was right.
Once we transferred buses in Porto, the dream of a smooth overnight journey disappeared pretty quickly. The second bus was rough, uncomfortable, and determined to make sure nobody got anything close to restful sleep. By the time we finally rolled into Bayonne, we were running on fumes, stiff legs, and whatever tiny scraps of patience remained.
Our Route from Coimbra to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port
Getting to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port from Portugal was not particularly complicated on paper. It was just long.
Our route looked like this:
- Coimbra to Porto by bus
- Porto to Bayonne by overnight bus
- Bayonne bus stop to Bayonne train station on foot
- Bayonne to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port by regional train
The longest section was the overnight journey from Portugal to Bayonne. Altogether, we spent roughly 19 hours traveling before reaching southwestern France.
Schedules, ticket prices, and connections can change, so check the latest transportation options before committing to this route. Also, leave more transfer time than you think you need. A five-minute walk becomes a full expedition when you are sleep-deprived and carrying your life on your back.
The Overnight Bus from Porto to Bayonne
Once we changed buses in Porto, the dream of a smooth overnight journey disappeared.
The second bus was rough, uncomfortable, and seemingly determined to ensure nobody experienced anything resembling restful sleep.
I adjusted my legs.
Then my backpack.
Then my neck.
Then my expectations.
By the time we reached Bayonne, we were running on stiff muscles, scraps of patience, and the vague memory of what sleeping in a proper bed felt like.
I felt less like a traveler and more like luggage that had somehow become self-aware.
Still, beneath the exhaustion, there was excitement.
For years, I had thought about walking the Camino Francés. After completing the Camino Português, I knew I wanted to return to the pilgrimage life.
This Camino would be different.
Longer. More iconic. More intimidating.
And now it was finally happening.
Getting from the Bayonne Bus Stop to the Train Station
After arriving in Bayonne, our next mission was straightforward: find the train station.
It should have been an easy five-minute walk.
Unfortunately, time and distance work differently after a night on a bus. Add two backpacks and a brain powered almost entirely by caffeine, and even a short walk can begin to feel like an expedition across uncharted territory.
We wandered past the bridge and briefly took what I like to call the scenic tired-person route.
Along the way, a man called out, “Hey, how are you doing?”
“Doing well,” I answered, despite the physical evidence suggesting otherwise. “How are you?”
“Doing great!”
Naturally, I asked whether he knew where the train station was.
Thankfully, he pointed us in the correct direction, ending our accidental walking tour of Bayonne.
Once inside the station, we bought our tickets and rewarded ourselves with breakfast, coffee, and then another coffee.
After a night like that, the first coffee is merely administrative.
Taking the Train from Bayonne to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port
The train from Bayonne to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port was where the journey finally began to feel like the Camino.
As we traveled deeper into the French Basque Country, city streets gave way to rolling green hills, scattered villages, and the first imposing shapes of the Pyrenees.
Those mountains had been an abstract idea while planning the journey.
Now they were real.
And tomorrow, we would be walking into them.
The train carried a growing collection of pilgrims, packs, walking poles, and nervous energy. Some people chatted excitedly. Others stared quietly through the windows, perhaps wondering whether they had trained enough or packed too much.
I was probably doing both.
St-Jean-Pied-de-Port is one of the most popular starting points for the Camino Francés, but arriving there felt like more than reaching a trailhead. It felt like approaching the edge of ordinary life.
Arriving in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port
When we finally arrived in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the exhaustion hit immediately.
The town was everything I had imagined.
Stone buildings lined narrow streets. Pilgrims wandered beneath medieval archways with scallop shells tied to their backpacks. Restaurants buzzed with nervous excitement.
Some people appeared ready to conquer Spain. Others looked like they were quietly questioning every decision that had brought them there.
Honestly, I felt a little of both.
St-Jean-Pied-de-Port is criminally pretty. Its cobbled lanes, old stone walls, terracotta roofs, and surrounding hills make it look suspiciously like a town invented specifically for travel brochures.
However, there was also a nervous energy beneath the beauty. Everyone knew what was waiting beyond the town gates.
The Pyrenees.
Visiting the Pilgrims Office
One of our first stops was the Pilgrims Office.
There, we collected our pilgrim information, prepared our credentials for collecting stamps, and received small protective pouches to help keep them safe during the walk.
A pilgrim credential is one of the most important items you carry on the Camino. It records your journey through stamps collected at albergues, churches, cafés, restaurants, and other stops along the route.
More than a practical document, it becomes a physical record of your pilgrimage.
Scallop shells were also available for a donation, so Sage and I each selected one and attached it to our packs.
Nothing says “we are really doing this” quite like tying a shell to your backpack and pretending you feel completely prepared.
The staff also provided information about the route ahead and the conditions through the mountains. I recommend visiting the office before leaving town, particularly when walking the Napoleon Route toward Roncesvalles.
Our First Night in a St-Jean-Pied-de-Port Albergue
After visiting the Pilgrims Office, we found our albergue and checked in for the night.
If you have never stayed in the municipal albergue in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, imagine a summer camp designed by people who consider privacy an unnecessary luxury.
Bunk beds.
Shared bathrooms.
Dozens of strangers.
Snoring potential in every direction.
Perfect.
After showering, Sage and I felt slightly human again. We were not fully restored, but we at least no longer looked like two people who had been folded into bus seats for most of a day.
We headed into town searching for food and found a bocadillo filled with fresh presunto and cheese.
The filling was excellent.
The baguette, however, had clearly been training for combat.
It was hard enough to qualify as emergency building material, but we were hungry and grateful. After the overnight journey, even a simple meal tasted like victory.
Tomorrow, we would start walking.
The Less Glamorous Side of Albergue Life
After dinner, we returned to the albergue hoping for one thing: a good night’s sleep.
Some of our fellow pilgrims had other plans.
For reasons known only to them and perhaps the Camino gods, several people placed their shoes directly beside my bed. They also plugged their phones into the outlet next to me.
Why?
I have no idea.
Based on the smell of the shoes, however, I can only assume the phones emerged from the experience permanently changed.
The following morning, mud was everywhere.
It covered shoes, floors, and parts of the bathroom that I would prefer not to discuss in detail.
There was also “water” on the floor.
At least, we decided to call it water. Some mysteries are better left unsolved.
The Camino had not even properly begun, yet it was already stripping away our expectations of comfort, cleanliness, and personal space.
Would I Take This Route Again?
Traveling from Coimbra to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port by bus and train was one of the more affordable and straightforward routes available to us, but it came with a clear tradeoff: exhaustion.
The long overnight bus journey saved us from dealing with airports and additional flights, but sleeping on the bus was difficult. We arrived in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port tired, stiff, and badly in need of recovery.
I would consider using this route again, but I would make several adjustments:
- Allow plenty of time for the transfer in Bayonne
- Pack food and water for the overnight journey
- Keep important items accessible rather than buried inside the backpack
- Avoid planning a demanding walking day immediately after arriving
- Spend at least one night in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port before crossing the Pyrenees
This route is a reasonable option for budget-conscious travelers coming from Portugal who do not mind an extended bus ride.
Travelers who struggle to sleep on buses, need greater comfort, or want to begin the Camino fully rested may prefer breaking the journey into shorter stages.
Whatever route you choose, I strongly recommend arriving in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port the day before you plan to walk. The first climb toward Orisson and Roncesvalles does not believe in gentle introductions.
Preparing to Walk from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port
That evening, we reorganized our packs and prepared for the following morning.
Every item suddenly felt heavier.
Every unnecessary object seemed to announce its presence. The Pyrenees stood beyond the town, quietly waiting to review our packing decisions. We were excited, exhausted, and slightly concerned about what we had gotten ourselves into.
But the scallop shells were attached to our packs.
Sage was beside me.
The credentials were ready for their first stamps. And St-Jean-Pied-de-Port had officially welcomed us in the most Camino way possible: with beauty, exhaustion, nervous anticipation, questionable smells, and the promise of many stories still to come.
Atypical Last Thoughts
The Camino Francés did not begin when we stepped onto the trail. It began in Coimbra, when we closed the door behind us and started making our way toward France.
It wasn’t going to be luxury accommodations, pristine facilities, and postcard moments every hour of every day.
It was going to be real.
There would be muddy boots, sore muscles, crowded dormitories, unexpected challenges, and probably a few more questionable bathroom encounters along the way.
And honestly? That’s exactly why people keep coming back.
The Camino strips away comfort and routine. It replaces them with uncertainty, simplicity, and the occasional lesson disguised as inconvenience. As Sage and I packed our bags that morning, shells hanging from our packs and anticipation building with every passing minute, we couldn’t help but wonder what awaited us beyond the town gates.
The Pyrenees stood ahead.
The first yellow arrows were waiting.
And our Camino was finally about to begin.
Follow along as Sage and I make our way across Spain, one step, one stamp, one coffee, and one questionable albergue bathroom at a time.
Continue Our Camino Francés Journey
Our Camino finally began with the steep climb out of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port toward Orisson. It was not a warm-up. It was the Pyrenees grabbing us by the collar and dragging us directly into the sky.
Plan Your Camino de Santiago
Continue preparing for your pilgrimage with these Camino guides:
- Camino de Santiago: The Complete Guide to Walking the Way
- Camino Francés: Route, Stages, and Planning Guide
- What to Pack for the Camino de Santiago
- How to Train for the Camino de Santiago
- Camino Albergues: What First-Time Pilgrims Should Expect
- Choosing the Best Camino de Santiago Route
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